Climbers Access Society Of BC

Duncan Boulders and Samsun Narrows

for Duncan Boulders

written by Eric Goodwin

The landowner who has graciously allowed access to Duncan Boulders and
Samsun Narrows from Genoa Bay Rd. is no longer allowing access across
their private land. The CASBC hopes that you respect the wishes of the
landowners, and do not trespass.

The landowners' concerns include dogs spooking their cattle (Samsun),
trash being left at the boulders (including a "fixed" gymnastics mat)
and erosion where the loop trail crosses a creek.

The owner mentioned that an alternative access to the boulders might
be possible across municipal forest land. The CASBC is investigating
alternative access to the boulders, but Samsun narrows is now
accessible only by boat.

CRD - Preparation of the Regional Parks Strategic Plan

for Vancouver Island - South

written by Eric Goodwin

The Capital Regional District's (CRD) Regional Parks division is currently preparing a new Strategic Plan to guide the management of regional parks and regional trails over the next ten year.

We're preparing a presentation for an upcoming meeting with the 'Citizen Advisory Panel' for the project, but you can also voice your opinion on the matter on their online survey at: "http://www.crd.bc.ca/_contact/?l=parks_strategic":http://www.crd.bc.ca/_contact/?l=parks_strategic

Climbing areas that fall within a CRD Park include Mt. Wells, East Sooke Park, Cyberia, Roche Cove and Sugarloaf.

Postponed Until June - Fleming Beach Membership Drive

for Vancouver Island - South

written by Eric Goodwin

We're postponing the Fleming Beach Membership Drive until June now. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. Still feel free to come down this Sunday and have a climb in the sun. We'll let you know when we have a new date, and if you just can't wait to get you membership the Esquimalt Rec Center is just down the road.

Fleming Beach Membership Drive

for Vancouver Island - South

written by Eric Goodwin

We're going to be having a membership drive at Fleming Beach in Victoria on May 16th. If you're in town feel free to come by for some bouldering beside the sea.

Fleming Beach is a great urban climbing area in Esquimalt, BC just minutes from downtown Victoria. There are fun bouldering traverses as well as quite a few top roped climbs.

To help maintain the area, the City of Esquimalt require a $10/year membership fee to use the area. It's well worth it and as well as renewing memberships for CASBC we'll also be helping the city with their membership drive. If you can't make it out on the 16th but enjoy climbing at Fleming, feel free to drop by the Esquimalt Rec Center to pick up a Fleming Beach membership card.

Keep checking back here and I'll post more details as we get closer to the event.

Anchor Upgrades at Fleming Beach

for Fleming Beach

written by Eric Goodwin

The picturesque seaside area of Fleming Beach is a popular destination for fisherman,
horizon-gazers, dog-walkers, and…climbers. It represents the closest (and
most popular) established climbing cliff in proximity to downtown Victoria,
and is popular with boulderers and top ropers. Although the crag is actually
based in the Township of Esquimalt, it can be reached in about 10-15 minutes
from the downtown core (by bike or car), and as such is a popular sunny
afternoon playground for area climbers. Details can be found in Mark
Freeborn’s "Rockclimbs of Victoria."

Since there had been no professional reviews completed at Fleming in
several years, last fall the Esquimalt Parks and Recreation department asked
that the area be inspected by a professional climbing guide. A report
outlining the results of the inspection indicated several anchor bolts had
noticeable corrosion; unfortunately years of wet coast rain, seaside mists,
and other corrosive influences were starting to eat away at some of the
older anchors. It was determined that these bolts should be replaced.

Brian Gould (Squamish-based ACMG mountain guide) completed the review as
well as the retro-bolting. New stainless steel anchor bolts were placed
close to previous anchors points in order to maintain consistency. The
retrofitting was completed for the main bolts on 'The Overhang', and several
of the stations at the top of the 'Right Side'. Two of the anchors were
repositioned higher due to hazardous access, and/or poor placement
contributing to rope drag. It is likely that all these new anchors will
remain corrosion free for several years, however the intention is that
regular safety inspections will occur on a more regular basis to limit
degradation of the area, and continued access for all.

For climbers that use this area, please remember that you must purchase an
annual pass. The fee is only $10, and is an important part of the agreement
that keeps this area open for climbing and bouldering. Passes can be
purchased at the Esquimalt Recreation Centre, 527 Fraser Street.

Thanks to the Township of Esquimalt (Andy Katschor), Ascent Public Affairs
(Kimanda Jarzebiak), the Climbers Access Society of BC, Brian
Gould, and Mountain Equipment Co-op for donating time and resources to this
project.