Regions - Squamish

A description is most likely not required; splitter cracks, long multi pitch routes, loads of bouldering and some decent sport climbing make Squamish world renowned for rock climbing. CASBC works with the Squamish Access Society to advocate for climbing in Squamish. www.squamishaccess.ca

The Stawamus Chief Climbers' Campground is normally open from May - September. Cost is $10/party/night. It is largely a walk-in campground, with no reservation system.

July 2010
20

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Trail Day Success

for Squamish

written by Peter Winter

On Saturday over 30 volunteers sacrificied their climbing day with some hard work at the base of the Chief. Work was done on the Apron decent trail, Apron-GrandWall connector trail, GrandWall-Bulletheads connector trail as well as trail/boulder maintenance in the bouldering areas. Special thanks to the Squamish Access Society, and ArcTeryx. There were great prizes from: Valhalla Pure, Petzl, Black Diamond, MEC, Metolius, Cascade Designs, and great coffee from Bean Around the World. Some footage is available at:
http://www.youtube.com/user/ClimbForChangeClips#p/a/51F0E1FA6626E431/0/MlY1TzUak8M

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Squamish Adopt A Crag

for Squamish

written by Peter Winter

Trail Day During Squamish Mountain Festival

The Squamish Access Society and The Climber Access Society of BC are organizing a trail day during the Squamish Mountain Festival. The event is held in partnership with Arcteryx, Mountain Equipment Coop and BC parks.

What: a half-day of trail and boulder maintenance and garbage collection
Where: Apron Parking Lot, Stawamus Provincial Park
When: meet 9am Saturday July 17th 2010 for coffee, muffins and a briefing

There will be a post event prize raffle for all volunteers including the chance to win one of two crash pads!

Don’t forget to bring:
Sturdy footwear and gloves
Appropriate clothing
Lunch
Water
Cell phones, sunscreen, etc….

June 2010
26

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Falcon Closure Update

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

The falcon closure will be lifted on July 9th, this date is subject to change.

GAS

for Cat Lake [issues]

written by Peter Winter

June 11, 2010
Ministry of Environment
INFORMATION LACKING FOR GARIBALDI AT SQUAMISH PROJECT VICTORIA – Garibaldi at Squamish Inc. will have to provide more information on its proposed project before it will be eligible to be considered for an environmental assessment certificate. Environment Minister Barry Penner and Tourism, Culture and the Arts Minister Kevin Krueger made the decision to require additional information from the proponent after considering the review led by B.C.’s Environmental Assessment Office (EAO) and other matters they considered relevant to the public interest. The proponent proposes to construct and operate an all-seasons resort consisting of up to 21,922 residential and commercial bed units, two golf courses, 25 ski lifts and 123 runs, a water supply system with five large dammed reservoirs, solid and liquid waste management systems, highway access and roadway development and power supply infrastructure. The proposed project would be located on the slopes of Brohm Ridge within the coast range of southern British Columbia, located near the southwest corner of Garibaldi Provincial Park, which is approximately 15 kilometres north of Squamish. Based on its review of the proposed project, the EAO was unable to adequately assess the potential for adverse environmental effects of the proposed project due to insufficient information provided by the proponent with respect to five major areas: water supply and hydrology, fish and fish habitat, wildlife and wildlife habitat, vegetation and water reservoirs and dams. The ministers concluded the information provided by the proponent was inadequate with respect to potential significant adverse impacts. The ministers did not accept the proponent’s proposal to provide additional information at the permitting stage, rather than addressing these matters during the environmental assessment as it would undermine the purpose and intent of the B.C. Environmental Assessment Act. The project did not trigger an environmental assessment under the Canadian Environmental Assessment Act. The ministers ordered that the proposed project undergo a further assessment led by the Environmental Assessment Office in accordance with the scope, procedures and methods specified in the order.

Route Closures due to Falcon nesting

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

B.C. Parks has closed the following routes, effective immediately:

Europa above pitch 2
Millenium Falcon above pitch 2
Men Holding Hands above the first 5.12 pitch
Brothers in Arms above the first 5.12 pitch
Freeway above the 10c pitch traverse
Stone Free above the first 5.12 pitch
The Gauntlet above pitch 2
Supernaut above pitch 2
Planet Caravan above pitch 2
Crescent Ramp
Cannabis Wall above pitch 2
Negro Lesbian
Sports Illustrated
Warriors of the Wasteland above pitch 2
Western Dihedral
Clean Corner

The following routes are still open:
Bombay Sapphire
Men Holding Hands- the first 5.12 pitch
Brothers in Arms- the first 5.12 pitch
Great White North
Milk Run into Tantalus Wall
Midnight Run

May 2010
17

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Chief Campground Fee Structure

for Squamish

written by Jeremy Frimer

Last year, the rules at the Chief Campground led to tension and confusion. Recently, CASBC and SAS discussed the matter with BC Parks and the Campground operator to create a simpler, friendlier system.

For now, campground fees will be $5 per person per night and a self-registration system will be in effect. If this system works (ie doesn't lead to people not paying), the system may become a permanent fixture.

From the SAS Website, May 1, 2010:

New Chief Campground Rules
The SAS is aware of changes which occurred last year in the running of the campground at the Chief. In particular the payment regime, definition of “parties”, and mode of collection were altered to bring the park more in line with provincial policy. This was met with less than universal approval. The vast majority of users are climbers who arrive by various modes of transport (foot, car, bus, bike) and tying the definition of a “party” to vehicles has not been easy to understand or implement. The absence of a self-payment (replaced by early morning collection calls) has also been challenging.
In a meeting in July 2009, the SAS voiced its concerns about the changes, in particular what it meant to what until then had been heralded as a unique and welcoming environment for climbers around the world. Parks committed to a re-assessment after the “test” season was complete. The SAS appreciates that the park needs to be run in accordance with provincial government mandates, however would like to explore avenues to maintain a climber friendly and accessible environment.
The SAS is meeting, in conjunction with the Access Society (of BC), with BC parks and the new park contractor prior to the 2010 campground opening to explore ways that Parks can meet its requirements as set out by the province, and ways in which the payment regime can be modified to best accommodate the realities of the majority of users.

April 2010
20

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Chief Falcon Closure Update

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

As of May 8th, 2010 there are no closures currently in effect.

The following from the Squamish Access Society www.squamishaccess.ca:

The SAS has continued to liaise with Parks on the 2010 Falcon Closure issue.

Parks has been monitoring a falcon presence on the Grand Wall to the right of belly good ledge but to date has not confirmed nesting behaviour. As a result, there are currently (as of May 8th 2010) no closures in effect. It is the evidence of nesting behaviour which triggers any closures. Climbers are asked to call 604-898-3678 ext 2221 with any information

Notice to Rock Climbers:

•Since the mid-1980’s Peregrine Falcons have been returning to nest in the Dihedrals Area. Climbers have observed a voluntary closure to protect the nesting falcons from disturbance. Following up on this effort by climbers, BC Parks places restrictions on certain routes from March 15 - July 31. Route closures may change pending peregrine falcon behaviour.
•Please report any observations to: 604-898-3678 ext 2221.
The annual closure program was recently discussed with BC parks at the Climbers Advisory Group established under the Climbing Stewardship Strategy. The discussions follow on the heels of concerns initially voiced to BC Parks by the SAS in a meeting held in June 2009, following the unprecedented closure of part of the Grand Wall route.

For the upcoming season, BC Parks is committed to work under an enhanced draft-monitoring program based on scientific data that comprises the following:

•starting March 2010, working with a wildlife biologist specializing in falcons, look for key indicators of nesting behaviour
•focus on traditional closure area since early indications don’t suggest a broader cast is necessary
•if nesting location is confirmed, communicate closure of affected area to climbing community
•determine approximate time of fledging, pull back monitoring but keep closure in effect
•monitor calculated fledging time and re-open any closures after fledging is confirmed.
Falcons have been observed by climbers this year, and that information has been passed on to BC parks.

The SAS would like to thank BC Parks for their continued engagement with climbers on this front.

January 2010
15

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Route Cleaning Dangers Stawamus Chief

for Squamish

written by Peter Winter

Route Cleaning Dangers Stawamus Chief

Over the past few months, there have been a few extremely close calls where people walking at the base of the Chief were almost hit by debris from above. Climbers, developing new routes, had intentionally dropped the debris, but had not flagged the trails leading up the base with caution tape and signs. At of yet, BC Parks has no official policy regarding route cleaning. At this time, CASBC strongly suggests that route developers think carefully through the process prior to cleaning, regardless of the time of year or weather. Assume that people will be walking below unless they are specifically cautioned not to. To increase safety in the Park, CASBC suggests posting unambiguous signage and flagging tape on all the trails that lead to the fall zone.

These near misses are of great concern to CASBC and to BC Parks. Human life and the future of route development in Stawamus Chief Park are at stake; your cooperation is appreciated.

Genesis Wall

for Murrin Park

written by Jeremy Frimer

Genesis Wall is located just 50m from the parking lot, located below MilkMan Wall. Jeremy Frimer cleaned and added routes to Genesis Wall in 2009. The wall now has a mix of trad and sport routes: Genesis (10a), Geneside (10b), Keen & Able (5.8), Pseudo Buddhists (10b/c), and Original Thin (10c).

More info is available at http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?t=2409

Photos: Mandy on 'Geneside' and Nick on 'Original Thin'.

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November 2009
18

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Annual General Meeting

for Squamish

written by Peter Winter

Our Annual General Meeting will take place on Sunday, December 6th at 7pm in the Howe Sound Inn and Brewing Company. Please attend if you can. Lots of great prizes and slideshows from Sonnie Trotter and Jason Kruk + more!

August 2009
21

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Rogues' Gallery Trail Day

for Rogues Gallery

written by Peter Winter

The Trail Day on August 15th was a huge success with some great work done by those who made the effort to come out. The base of Hoods In The Woods and Grand Larceny have been much improved as well as the approach trail from the parking lot. It was very hard work but everyone put in a full days effort to get the job finished. At the end of the day, the volunteers were rewarded with prizes from MEC,Black Diamond, Cascade Designs (MSR/Thermarest), Petzl and ArcTeryx. Also special thanx to Fraserwood Industries in Squamish for donating all the wood required.

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Squamish Mountain Festival ,Presented by ArcTeryx, Trail Day

for Squamish

written by Eric Goodwin

Along with the Squamish Access Society, CASBC will be performing some trail/crag work at Rogue's Gallery. The belay stances and trails have fallen into disrepair and need some TLC. We are looking for volunteers! The plan is to meet at the Squamish Adventure Center at 800AM to carpool up to the crags. There will be some great prizes and good fun, so come on out and give a little back. Please email us if you are planning on attending so we can have an idea on numbers. Look forward to seeing you!

Saturday, August 15 - meet at the Squamish Adventure Centre
What: Squamish Mountain Festival Trail Day, Sponsored by MEC
When: 8am to 4pm Saturday August 15th 2009
Where: Meet at the Squamish Adventure Center; car pool up to rogues gallery climbing area for base building and trail delineation; (additional venues possible depending on turnout)

This is a great way to contribute some time to maintain access to the Squamish area crags, please come out and help.

Details
*Bring appropriate clothing, footwear and gloves for trail work; bring your own lunch & drink (snacks and drink refills available on-sight courtesy MEC)
*Tools and supplies provided by SAS. If you bring your own tools, please mark them.
*Volly loot give-away at the end of the work

July 2009
1

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All Chief routes now open

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

The Peregrine falcon closure has been lifted for all routes on the Chief.

June 2009
20

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Grand Wall Route Closed

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

The Grand Wall route is closed from the TOP of the Split Pillar to Bellygood ledge for Peregrine Falcon nesting. Remember, the Chief is in a Provincial Park, so your cooperation is appreciated.

See www.squamishaccess.ca for more info.

Cougar Warning

for Fern Hill

written by Peter Winter

A cougar or cougars have had aggressive confrontations with people in and around the Fern Hill area. Be aware and don't go in the area alone.

May 2009
21

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Squamish Mountain Festival 2009

for Squamish

written by Peter Winter

Let the fun begin!! The Squamish Mountian Festival will occur from August 12-16. Once again, you can expect great flims, great speakers and lots of fun. Go to : http://www.squamishmountainfestival.com.

CASBC and the SAS will be holding an Adopt-a-Crag type event on Saturday, August 15th. Many volunteers will be needed and there will be great prizes, so we hope you can make it!

Access Pan America

for Squamish

written by Peter Winter

From:www.accesspanamerica.com
Acesso Pan América / Accès PanAmériques
Access Pan America is the first ever campaign to keep climbing areas open and protect the climbing environment in all the Western Hemisphere. Just forming in 2009, it is a grassroots effort of individual climbers, climbing organizations and federations, outdoor clubs, and corporate supporters. The network will meet for the first time during the Squamish Mountain Festival, presented by ARC'TERYX , August 12-16, 2009.

Protecting mountains environments and maintaining climbing access is a growing problem throughout the Americas. In response climbers have organized in some countries, but in the majority of the Americas there simply is no organized effort to protect access or the areas.

Access to and conservation of the climbing environment for current and future generations is fundamental, whether to rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, or bouldering. Climbers from the North America and Europe have long explored all the Americas. Now, their numbers are strengthened by local climbers in almost all countries with mountains and stone. The surge of climbing in the North is spreading to all the Americas.

However, governments, private land owners, development, even war and banditry restrict access and threaten environments crucial to the future of climbing in the Americas. For example,

•Valle Cochamó, in Chile's northern Patagonia, is a alpine wilderness, and it may have some of the longest ice-free granite routes on earth. Cochamó is legally unprotected, and local utility companies have applied to dam the Valley.
•Northern Mexico is emerging as one of the best winter rock climbing destination in the world, a paradise of untapped stone. However, it is almost all threatened with development, claimed by various levels of government and usually at least one private owner.
•Brazil, the largest country in Latin America, with perhaps the most climbing rock, has more closed climbing areas than all the U.S. and Canada combined.
Where climbers have organized, they have learned that to secure the freedom to climb and protect sensitive environments require all the tools of advocacy, stewardship and conservation projects, grassroots activism, climber education, and, at times, land acquisition.

Moving right now is timely. The Western Hemisphere runs the organizational gamut from local climbing clubs to the the recently launched nationwide access organizations in Brazil and Canada, to the almost 20-year old Access Fund in the US and the well established British Columbia Access Society. A critical mass of organizations and interest exist to create local, regional, and national climbers access networks in most of Latin America.

Preserving or creating access to climb must be done by locally organized climbers and their supporters. Access Pan America hopes to be a network of resources, organizers, and communications to foster the process of local climbers organizations.

February 2009
9

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Garibaldi At Squamish

for Cat Lake [issues] [issues]

written by Peter Winter

If this ski/golf area development goes ahead, access to this area could be affected. http://www.garibaldiatsquamish.com

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© 2010 Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia