July 2011
16
Regions - Squamish - Chief
The Chief lies in the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park.
Big wall climbing at it's finest, from single pitch routes at the base to multi-pitch routes that take you right to the top.
There is a voluntary annual closure, to protect nesting peregrine falcons. The exact location and dates of the closure vary from year to year, but usually include all routes between the Black Dyke and Freeway, from about two pitches/80 metres off the ground to Bellygood Ledge, from April to July. Details are posted each year on the website.
News
May 2011
10
Chief Falcon Route Closures
Europa/Crap Crags above pitch 3
• Millennium Falcon pitches 4-10
• Lower Black Dyke above pitch 2
• The Gauntlet above pitch 3
• Negro Lesbian
• Zorroʼs Last Ride
Closed until July 31, 2011
or until posted otherwise.
Please report falcon sightings to
BC Parks at
604.898.3678 ext.2232
October 2010
7
North Walls Adopt-a-Crag
BC Parks and CASBC are looking for volunteers for an Adopt-a-Crag---to help improve a trail to and along the base of the North Walls of the Chief.
Date: Sunday, October 17th
Time: 10:00am
Meeting Location: Apron Parking Lot
Materials: The CASBC/SAS tool cache has plenty of clippers, shovels, and mattocks to go around. Come clothed for the weather.
Questions/Comments: Jeremy Frimer, jfrimer@access-society.ca
Description of the Project: The North Walls are home to some of the great climbs of Squamish, including Alaska Highway/The Calling, Astrologger, New Life, Gone Surfing, and many others. The trail, which begins near the base of Angel's Crest, is in need of some maintenance. The goal of this Adopt-a-Crag is to both improve access to existing climbs and to encourage route development in this vastly untapped but high-potential area.
18
New North Walls Trail - Adopt-a-Crag
In collaboration with BC Parks (Katy Chambers, Senior Park Ranger), CASBC organized 8 volunteers for a trail-building day at the base of the North Walls of the Chief. Below the walls was a rough or non-existent trail. After 6 hours of hard work, the crew succeeded in making a pleasant trail from the North Gully all the way to New Life (passing Astrologger, Alaska Highway, other routes, and much potential for future development). Thanks to everyone who came out and to BC Parks for their leadership. Also, a big thanks to Bean Around the World (Brackendale) for supplying the crew with hot coffee, and to MEC and Blurr for supplying "door" prizes!
June 2010
6
Route Closures due to Falcon nesting
B.C. Parks has closed the following routes, effective immediately:
Europa above pitch 2
Millenium Falcon above pitch 2
Men Holding Hands above the first 5.12 pitch
Brothers in Arms above the first 5.12 pitch
Freeway above the 10c pitch traverse
Stone Free above the first 5.12 pitch
The Gauntlet above pitch 2
Supernaut above pitch 2
Planet Caravan above pitch 2
Crescent Ramp
Cannabis Wall above pitch 2
Negro Lesbian
Sports Illustrated
Warriors of the Wasteland above pitch 2
Western Dihedral
Clean Corner
The following routes are still open:
Bombay Sapphire
Men Holding Hands- the first 5.12 pitch
Brothers in Arms- the first 5.12 pitch
Great White North
Milk Run into Tantalus Wall
Midnight Run
26
Falcon Closure Update
The falcon closure will be lifted on July 9th, this date is subject to change.
April 2010
20
Chief Falcon Closure Update
As of May 8th, 2010 there are no closures currently in effect.
The following from the Squamish Access Society www.squamishaccess.ca:
The SAS has continued to liaise with Parks on the 2010 Falcon Closure issue.
Parks has been monitoring a falcon presence on the Grand Wall to the right of belly good ledge but to date has not confirmed nesting behaviour. As a result, there are currently (as of May 8th 2010) no closures in effect. It is the evidence of nesting behaviour which triggers any closures. Climbers are asked to call 604-898-3678 ext 2221 with any information
Notice to Rock Climbers:
•Since the mid-1980’s Peregrine Falcons have been returning to nest in the Dihedrals Area. Climbers have observed a voluntary closure to protect the nesting falcons from disturbance. Following up on this effort by climbers, BC Parks places restrictions on certain routes from March 15 - July 31. Route closures may change pending peregrine falcon behaviour.
•Please report any observations to: 604-898-3678 ext 2221.
The annual closure program was recently discussed with BC parks at the Climbers Advisory Group established under the Climbing Stewardship Strategy. The discussions follow on the heels of concerns initially voiced to BC Parks by the SAS in a meeting held in June 2009, following the unprecedented closure of part of the Grand Wall route.
For the upcoming season, BC Parks is committed to work under an enhanced draft-monitoring program based on scientific data that comprises the following:
•starting March 2010, working with a wildlife biologist specializing in falcons, look for key indicators of nesting behaviour
•focus on traditional closure area since early indications don’t suggest a broader cast is necessary
•if nesting location is confirmed, communicate closure of affected area to climbing community
•determine approximate time of fledging, pull back monitoring but keep closure in effect
•monitor calculated fledging time and re-open any closures after fledging is confirmed.
Falcons have been observed by climbers this year, and that information has been passed on to BC parks.
The SAS would like to thank BC Parks for their continued engagement with climbers on this front.
July 2009
1
June 2009
20
Grand Wall Route Closed
The Grand Wall route is closed from the TOP of the Split Pillar to Bellygood ledge for Peregrine Falcon nesting. Remember, the Chief is in a Provincial Park, so your cooperation is appreciated.
See www.squamishaccess.ca for more info.