May 2010


CRD - Preparation of the Regional Parks Strategic Plan

for Vancouver Island - South

written by Eric Goodwin

The Capital Regional District's (CRD) Regional Parks division is currently preparing a new Strategic Plan to guide the management of regional parks and regional trails over the next ten year.

We're preparing a presentation for an upcoming meeting with the 'Citizen Advisory Panel' for the project, but you can also voice your opinion on the matter on their online survey at: "":

Climbing areas that fall within a CRD Park include Mt. Wells, East Sooke Park, Cyberia, Roche Cove and Sugarloaf.


Chief Campground Fee Structure

for Squamish

written by Jeremy Frimer

Last year, the rules at the Chief Campground led to tension and confusion. Recently, CASBC and SAS discussed the matter with BC Parks and the Campground operator to create a simpler, friendlier system.

For now, campground fees will be $5 per person per night and a self-registration system will be in effect. If this system works (ie doesn't lead to people not paying), the system may become a permanent fixture.

From the SAS Website, May 1, 2010:

New Chief Campground Rules
The SAS is aware of changes which occurred last year in the running of the campground at the Chief. In particular the payment regime, definition of “parties”, and mode of collection were altered to bring the park more in line with provincial policy. This was met with less than universal approval. The vast majority of users are climbers who arrive by various modes of transport (foot, car, bus, bike) and tying the definition of a “party” to vehicles has not been easy to understand or implement. The absence of a self-payment (replaced by early morning collection calls) has also been challenging.
In a meeting in July 2009, the SAS voiced its concerns about the changes, in particular what it meant to what until then had been heralded as a unique and welcoming environment for climbers around the world. Parks committed to a re-assessment after the “test” season was complete. The SAS appreciates that the park needs to be run in accordance with provincial government mandates, however would like to explore avenues to maintain a climber friendly and accessible environment.
The SAS is meeting, in conjunction with the Access Society (of BC), with BC parks and the new park contractor prior to the 2010 campground opening to explore ways that Parks can meet its requirements as set out by the province, and ways in which the payment regime can be modified to best accommodate the realities of the majority of users.

Postponed Until June - Fleming Beach Membership Drive

for Vancouver Island - South

written by Eric Goodwin

We're postponing the Fleming Beach Membership Drive until June now. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. Still feel free to come down this Sunday and have a climb in the sun. We'll let you know when we have a new date, and if you just can't wait to get you membership the Esquimalt Rec Center is just down the road.

April 2010


Eldred River Adopt-a-Crag /Blue Sky Weekend

for Eldred

written by Peter Winter

Greetings all, climbing season is here! and with it time to invite you all on behalf of the Powell River Climbing Comunity to the 9th annual Eldred River Adopt-a-Crag /Blue Sky Weekend. The event will be held from May 14-16 2010 under the blue tarp at mile 34 in the Eldred Valley. Come prepared to camp,climb,do trail work and indulge in some serious fun! this years trail project is the rebuilding of the psyche slab approach trail obliterated by power line construction
Friday 14- Campfire is lit.
Saturday15(weather permiting) rockclimbing followed by potluck wild salmon barbeque
Sunday16 trail work
Any questions: email for contact info

Chief Falcon Closure Update

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

As of May 8th, 2010 there are no closures currently in effect.

The following from the Squamish Access Society

The SAS has continued to liaise with Parks on the 2010 Falcon Closure issue.

Parks has been monitoring a falcon presence on the Grand Wall to the right of belly good ledge but to date has not confirmed nesting behaviour. As a result, there are currently (as of May 8th 2010) no closures in effect. It is the evidence of nesting behaviour which triggers any closures. Climbers are asked to call 604-898-3678 ext 2221 with any information

Notice to Rock Climbers:

•Since the mid-1980’s Peregrine Falcons have been returning to nest in the Dihedrals Area. Climbers have observed a voluntary closure to protect the nesting falcons from disturbance. Following up on this effort by climbers, BC Parks places restrictions on certain routes from March 15 - July 31. Route closures may change pending peregrine falcon behaviour.
•Please report any observations to: 604-898-3678 ext 2221.
The annual closure program was recently discussed with BC parks at the Climbers Advisory Group established under the Climbing Stewardship Strategy. The discussions follow on the heels of concerns initially voiced to BC Parks by the SAS in a meeting held in June 2009, following the unprecedented closure of part of the Grand Wall route.

For the upcoming season, BC Parks is committed to work under an enhanced draft-monitoring program based on scientific data that comprises the following:

•starting March 2010, working with a wildlife biologist specializing in falcons, look for key indicators of nesting behaviour
•focus on traditional closure area since early indications don’t suggest a broader cast is necessary
•if nesting location is confirmed, communicate closure of affected area to climbing community
•determine approximate time of fledging, pull back monitoring but keep closure in effect
•monitor calculated fledging time and re-open any closures after fledging is confirmed.
Falcons have been observed by climbers this year, and that information has been passed on to BC parks.

The SAS would like to thank BC Parks for their continued engagement with climbers on this front.

© 2016 Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia