July 2013


Chief Route Closures-Falcons

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

The falcon has been located near the Sherriff's Badge. Interesting location as we have not known then to nest around the Sherriff's Badge before. I have sent pictures of the juvenile's to our biologist and he will determine how long it will be before they will fledge the nest. In the meantime, the closures will be in effect until July 31. The route closures are listed below, will be posted at the trailheads and posted on the BC Parks website.

Closed Climbs:
Blazing Saddles
Borderline- above 2nd pitch
A Fine Line
Hot Rod

Open Climbs:
Borderline- 1st and 2nd pitch
The Daily Planet

Thanks for your cooperation and spreading the word,
Katy Chambers
Area Supervisor
BC Parks and Protected Areas
Squamish/Whistler Area

Potential Issues in Okanagan

for Okanagan

written by Peter Winter

There are some land use issues developing in the Skaha region, specifically the new Mctaggart- Cowan Wilderness Management Area. Please make yourself aware of this new area which surrounds the whole area from Carmi to OK Falls. tp://www.soscp.org/2013/news/mctaggert-cowan-wildlife-area-created/

It covers considerable climbing areas outside of the Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park ,with routes dating back to 1990. Areas affected; Rutopia,Brevity Wall, Retardant Wall, The Belvedere, Flake Cliff, Shady Lane, all the bouldering in the WMA ,routes and bouldering south of Skaha Park, as far as OK Falls.This area encompasses the majority of accessible crown land on the eastern side of Skaha Lake from Penticton to OK Falls.

Input and consultation by recreational user groups was extremely limited and did not consider or represent our historical use in the area .We are working with a group of local climbers on this issue, and soliciting support from MEC, and inviting other stake holders to join us in the consultation process.

Over the last few weeks we have been speaking with officials from the ministry of Forestry, Lands and Natural Resource Operations to ensure that the climbing community will have representation and input in the management plan for the WMA. After a less than positive first meeting , we now have assurances from Grant Furness, Ecosystems Section Head, that we will be recognized stake holders, and part of the process. There has not been any order made restricting specific activities in the McTaggart /Cowan WMA , and the management plan will be developed in the future.

Please be mindful of your activities within the WMA ,and consider best conservation practices when climbing there.

We have developed a 2012 Climbers financial impact study on the local economy, approximately $8- $10 million in direct and indirect economic impact at the critical shoulder season, and will be gathering, economic and social data, on regional and provincial self propelled recreational activities.

We need to stay actively involved in discussions, and the consultation process of the Wildlife Management Area. I feel our user group has the same common conservation goals as the ministry and hope we can arrive at an equitable solution, that also benefits recreational climbers and recognizes them as a valid stakeholder group.

R Rybak
Regional Director

June 2013


Outhouse now empty

for Chek

written by Peter Winter

The upper outhouse was pumped out last week. Please let us know if it gets full again.

Peregrine Falcon Nesting Update – June 13, 2013

for Chief

written by Peter Winter

With the help of volunteers, BC Parks has been monitoring falcon activity at the Chief since March to determine if and where falcons are nesting. A pair of falcons continues to be sighted on and around the Chief suggesting that nesting is occurring, but the nest site has not been located. Monitoring of nest sites used in previous years appears to indicate that the nest is likely not on the Dihedrals or the main face of the Grand Wall, but may be located further north than usual, possibly around the north edge of the Grand Wall near the Apron.
If you encounter a falcon please respect them and keep your distance. Please report falcon sightings to BC Parks at 604-924-2228 or email Joanna.Hirner@gov.bc.ca; after June 21 please contact 604-898-3678 ext.2235 or Katy.Chambers@gov.bc.ca. If climbing route closures are required to protect a nest site, these closures will be posted at trailheads and on the BC Parks website. Thank you!

May 2013


Adopt a Crag at Nordic Complete

for Whistler

written by Peter Winter

8 people turned up at 9am to complete some trail work at Nordic in Whistler. We completed clearing the old trail of fallen trees and created a new alternate trail starting at the trail head. Up at the main area we completed building several steps into the heavily eroded section leading to the main wall. 4x4s, rebar, and rock were used for construction which was done in a way to minimize further erosion. It was a successful day which ended in a climbing session for some of the attendees. Thanx to CASBC for the tools, materials and swag.
Alec Fernandez

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