Climbers Access Society Of BC

CASBC Anchor and Bolt Retrofit Fund

The Climbers’ Access Society of BC (CASBC) is the only province-wide organization working to ensure public access specifically to the climbing areas of B.C.

CASBC has established an Anchor and Bolt Retrofit Fund that is designed to support the replacement of dangerous fixed climbing hardware anywhere in BC.

The rules:

What is eligible?	Projects, conducted since April 2012, upgrading fixed protection on any established technical rock or ice climb, in BC.
What is covered?	Actual costs of purchased rock anchors and associated hardware: bolts, hangers, permadraws, and chains only.
Who can apply?	Any current CASBC member.
How to get the cash?	See below for funding application. Project approval is at the discretion of the CASBC board. You must apply, and be approved, before starting the project. You must submit receipts for purchased hardware. You will be reimbursed for actual costs up to the price of equivalent hardware at MEC plus applicable taxes and shipping charges.
What about the fine print?	Retrofits must be deemed necessary for safety (e.g.: suspect hardware, replacing pitons, replacing slings, etc.) or environmental reasons (e.g.: replacing tree anchor with bolt anchor). Bolts must be stainless steel and at least 3/8” thick and 2 1/2” long. In soft rock, bolts should be at least 3” long. Glue-in bolts, designed for climbing, are acceptable in soft, porous rock only (not granite or quartzite). All bolts must have hangers: bolt + washers + chain is unacceptable. Hangers must be stainless steel, designed for climbing, rated to a minimum of 22 kN, and be UIAA or CE approved. Anchors must be two-bolt, entirely stainless steel anchors. Anchor chain must be stainless steel, and a minimum of 5/16” thick. For special situations (e.g. very high traffic routes), other anchor setups will be considered. Bolts should be spaced at least 20cm away from old bolts and rock edges. Bolt holes should be “over drilled” to facilitate bolt “erasure” if necessary. Pitons, slings, and webbing are not acceptable anchor replacements. Completed project funding applications must include at least a sampling of before and after photos of replaced hardware as well as an overall picture of the climb. Final approval of a retrofit project is at the discretion of CASBC.

The Reimbursement Procedure

Step 1: the Pre-Approval

You must be pre-approved for any project you plan to submit to CASBC for funding. To apply for pre-approval, email bolts@access-society.ca with the following information:

1. Name, phone number, and email address of the applicant(s).
2. Full description of retrofitting project, including a list of estimated hardware required.
3. A description of land ownership details of the climbing area, including access details.
4. A brief description of your abiliity to carry out the project. If you need help in this regard, still apply and we’ll try to get someone in your area to help you along the way.

Your application will be considered by the CASBC board and you will be notified by email of the approval status of application. Do not begin your project until you have received notice of approval from CASBC.

Step 2: the Retrofit

After receiving approval for your project, have at 'er, being sure to take before and after pictures of replaced/upgraded bolts and anchors.

Step 3: the Reimbursement Application

Once you have completed your retrofitting project, email bolts@access-society.ca with the following information:

1. Name, phone number, mailing address, and email address of the applicant(s).
2. Name of project area.
3. A sampling of before and after pictures (or a Web link to such pictures).
4. Electronic copies of your receipts (copies of mail order emails, pictures of paper receipts, etc.).

Upon verification of submitted details, CASBC will mail you a cheque.

Step 4: the Reward

Put your feet up, open a beverage of your choice, and accept the thanks of the climbing community for making BC crags safer.